Common questions.
Straight answers.

We inspect every log, joint, and chink line, inside and out. You get a written diagnosis the same day: what's wrong, the cause, and what happens if you leave it. The inspection is $1,000 flat. No surprise add-ons.

Small repairs and single-service jobs (staining, re-chinking) typically run 3–7 days. Full restorations on larger homes can take 2–4 weeks. We give you a specific timeline in writing before we start.

Not necessarily. Many of our clients are absent. We coordinate access, secure the property daily, and send progress photos. We just need someone reachable by phone for any decisions that come up.

Everything: scope of work, materials (brand and product names), timeline, and final price. No 'miscellaneous' line items, no surprise upsells. If something changes on site, we call you before we proceed.

Yes. We stand behind our work with a written warranty. Length depends on the service. We also schedule 6-month and 1-year follow-up visits at no charge to confirm the work is holding.

Yes, strongly. Log home condition is much harder to assess than stick-frame. Hidden rot, failed chinking, and moisture intrusion can be invisible to the eye until they're expensive. Our pre-purchase inspection uses moisture meters, density probes, thermal imaging, and an endoscope camera for corner notches and concealed joints. You get a written report with repair priorities and rough cost estimates before you sign anything.

Seven diagnostic methods: pin and pinless moisture meters (reading moisture content inside each log), deep-scan density probes (detecting hidden decay before it surfaces), infrared thermography (finding heat loss, wet logs, and pest activity), endoscope camera for corner notches and concealed structural joints, UV light surface analysis (identifying failing stain and mildew), chinking adhesion tests, and laser-level structural movement measurement. The written report includes findings, photos, repairs ranked by priority, and a maintenance plan.

Crushed-glass media blasting for most exterior work. We use fine recycled glass (50/100 grit) that's silica-free and biodegradable. It opens the wood surface so stain penetrates deeply rather than sitting on top. For interiors or detail areas, we switch to professional sanding. On some homes we combine both: blasting for main surfaces, sanding for refinement.

No. Performed correctly with fine crushed-glass media, blasting removes coatings without gouging the wood. Quality chinking tolerates it without failure. We calibrate pressure and nozzle distance to your specific log species and condition before we start.

Stain penetrates the wood fibres and lets moisture breathe out, which is critical for logs that expand and contract seasonally. Paint sits on the surface, traps moisture inside, and eventually peels or blisters. Trapped moisture accelerates rot. Painting a log home is one of the more expensive mistakes we're regularly called in to fix.

Water-based systems outperform oil-based on UV stability, colour retention, and breathability. They dry faster, off-gas less, and clean up without solvents. Oil-based stains were the standard decades ago. The chemistry has since moved well past them. We've tested both extensively in Canadian climates. Water-based wins.

Yes, meaningfully. Darker stains absorb more UV radiation before it reaches the wood (think higher-SPF sunscreen). Lighter and natural-tone stains look beautiful but degrade faster on south- and west-facing walls. If you choose a lighter colour, plan on more frequent maintenance coats on high-exposure faces.

Not always. We work in three tiers based on severity. Minor damage caught early can be stabilised with epoxy consolidation and borate preservative: the original log stays. Moderate damage allows partial replacement, where we match the species and hand-fit a new section. Only rot that has compromised load-bearing structure requires a full log swap. The inspection tells us which tier applies before we quote anything.

Every 3–7 years for most climates. The south and west faces degrade fastest due to sun exposure. A simple water-bead test tells you when it's time: if water soaks in rather than beading, you're due.

Soft or spongy spots when you press a screwdriver into the wood, dark discolouration that doesn't rinse off, and a faint musty smell near lower logs or log-to-foundation contacts. Catch it early: it's always cheaper.

Fill all existing holes and apply a borate-based stain system annually. Borate is absorbed into the wood and makes it toxic to wood-boring insects. It won't harm the wood, the finish, or you.

Greying is mostly cosmetic: UV oxidation turning the surface silver. It doesn't mean rot. But grey wood does absorb moisture faster, which increases rot risk over time. We recommend restoring colour before moisture damage sets in.

Not with regular caulk. It's too rigid and will crack within a season. Log homes need elastomeric chinking that moves with the wood through seasonal expansion and contraction. DIY caulk can actually trap moisture and make rot worse.

No. Pressure washers drive water into checks and end grain where it can't escape quickly. That trapped moisture is exactly what starts rot. They also erode soft wood fibres, raising the grain and reducing stain adhesion. Use a garden hose, a soft brush, and a log-specific wash product. Gentle is always right for log surfaces.

Those are checks, and they're normal. Logs dry from the outside in and split slightly as they release moisture. Most checks are cosmetic. The ones that need attention are checks on the top faces of exterior logs, the ones that face upward and collect water or debris. Those should be sealed with backer rod and an elastomeric sealant to prevent pooling inside the wood.

Shade. North-facing and heavily treed walls dry slowly after rain, which is exactly what mould needs. It's not a sign of rot on its own, but it does mean the stain is failing in that zone. Clean with a log wash product, let the surface dry fully, then apply a fresh maintenance coat. If mould returns within one season, the whole stain system in that area needs a proper re-application, not just another wash.

Carpenter ants are the most common. They don't eat wood but excavate galleries inside soft or rotting logs, accelerating structural damage. Powder post beetles bore small round holes and leave fine sawdust. Termites are rare in most of Canada but active in southern BC and Ontario. All three respond to the same treatment: borate preservative applied during restoration makes the wood toxic to wood-boring insects without harming the finish, the structure, or you.

Chinking is an elastic sealant applied between log courses (the horizontal gaps between stacked logs). It seals out air, moisture, insects, and cold while flexing with the logs through seasonal expansion and contraction. Without it, a log home leaks heat and lets moisture into the wall system year-round. Standard caulk is too rigid; it cracks within one season. Proper chinking can last decades.

Look for cracking, separation from the log face along one or both edges, sections that have turned hard and brittle, or any gap you can press a finger into. Inside, drafts along exterior walls or visible daylight between log courses confirm the seal has broken. Failing chinking can usually be spotted before it becomes a serious moisture problem. Check it annually.

Perma-Chink Systems® exclusively. Perma-Chink® for standard log course gaps, Energy Seal® for narrower joints and around windows and doors, and Check Mate 2® for sealing log checks. All are water-based, low-VOC, and have decades of field performance behind them. Every application starts with proper backer rod installation: it controls joint depth and creates the two-point adhesion that keeps chinking bonded and flexible long-term.

Spring and early summer book up fast. We recommend booking 6–8 weeks ahead for that window. Fall and shoulder-season slots are usually more available. Urgent rot or structural issues are always prioritized.

We currently serve Saskatchewan, Manitoba, and Ontario, with more provinces coming soon as we expand nationwide. Use the map on our homepage to see where we've recently worked.

Clear access around the perimeter of the home (move vehicles, patio furniture, planters). Pets should be kept inside or in a secure area. We handle all tarping, drop cloths, and protection of your landscaping.

A deposit is required to hold your booking date. The balance is due on completion after you've walked through the work with us and are satisfied. We accept cheque, e-transfer, and major credit cards.